socul electric si mersul pe timp rece

[silviustan]

Pe canceru' asta de afara, toate alea sunt importante: reglajul aprinderii, starea bujiilor, bobinei, fishelor, compresia, pompa de benzina, cate si mai cate.... Poa' sa mai inghetze apa prin filtrele si tzevile de benz. sau in carburici daca a ajuns acolo....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

MERSI TOVARASE....si cu ce sa incep!am sa ma uit pe la bujii ca benzina baga (chiar o inneaca)exista ceva spray-uri sau solutii....

[victori]

Cred ca exista niste sparyuri de pornire care contin un combustibil mai volatil decat benzina. Se da cu el in carburator astfel incat sa ajunga in motor. Fiind mai volatil se aprinde mai repede. Dupa aia incepe sa arda benzina.

Acum nu stiu cat de eficient este, eu nu am folosit niciodata.

Eu am pornit-o duminica pe la 9 seara si a luat-o din prima.

AAA, sa verifici si capacul delco, datorita frigului se poate sa ai condens acolo si sa nu dea scanteie. Pentru asta iti recomand WD-40, un spary care elimina apa, dai cu el in capac si stergi apoi usor, cat sa ramana o pelicula fina. Conduce electricitatea asa ca merge (prietenii stie ce miracole face acest spray ;) ).

Se gaseste pe la metro si prin magazinele de auto.

Modificat 8 Februarie, 2005 de victori

[Broscarul amator]

WD 40 este ;) E bine sa ai asa ceva in masina ! ;)

[silviustan]

mersi mult pt sfaturi!!!!!

acu inshfac bateria de langa calorifer,trag o tura pana la magazinu de peste parc si am sa incerc "sprayu'"minune.

acu , ca fapt divers ...de 2 anisori incoa merg ZILNIC cu masina.

+faptu ca nu inghit usor faze de genu "nu vrea sa porneasca"!!!!!!!!!

[MikeRG]

Automatic Choke Adjustment

http://www.vw-resource.com/choke2.html

Note: The purpose of the choke is to reduce the air intake into the carburetor, thus enriching the fuel mixture so that the engine will start and run when cold. The automatic choke, located on the upper right side of the carburetor, consists of an electrically-heated bimetallic coil that warms up (hopefully) at the same rate that the engine warms up. As it warms, the bimetallic coil inside the choke opens the butterfly valve in the throat of the carburetor, allowing more air into the carburetor and thus increasing the percentage of air in the fuel-to-air mixture.

The choke can be adjusted in two ways. Procedure #1 below is the quick and easy way, simply utilizing the markings on the body of the choke. Procedure #2 is a bit longer but probably more accurate.

~~~

Procedure #1-

Be sure the hook on the bimetallic spring contacts the choke shaft lever.

Install the cover and retainer and lightly tighten the screws.

Turn the ceramic element to align the mark on it with the middle mark on the housing.

~~~

Procedure #2-

The engine must be cold to make this adjustment.

Remove the air cleaner.

Find the automatic choke. It's the round thing on the upper right-hand of the carburetor. There is a wire coming to it from the positive side of the coil.

Note: The automatic choke is a round ceramic thing with the heating element wound inside of it. (The ceramic part may be covered with metal so that it looks just like the rest of the carburetor.) The choke is held in position by a triangular ring clamp and three screws so it can be loosened and rotated for adjustment.

Pull the throttle arm on the left side of the carburetor down to free the little step arm (cam) that the screw at the top of the throttle lever rests on.

Note: This stepped "cam" is connected to the butterfly valve inside the throat of the carburetor by a shaft that extends all the way into the automatic choke. With the engine cold, the butterfly valve should be closed. As the engine warms up, the coil inside the automatic choke uncoils, opens the butterfly valve, and moves the cam to reduce the idle speed.

Release the throttle arm so that the return spring snaps it back. The little screw at the top of the throttle arm (again, with the engine cold) should now rest on the top step of the stepped cam. This sets the hi-idle, which is needed together with the choke on a cold engine to provide sufficient idle speed to keep the engine running until it warms up fully.

Loosen the three screws on the right side that hold the choke in place.

Keep your eye on the butterfly valve in the carburetor throat.

Turn the choke element clockwise (viewed from the right) until the butterfly is standing straight up, then turn the choke counterclockwise (viewed from the right) until the choke butterfly fully closes (barely -- not too tightly), then tighten the three screws that hold the choke in place.

Note: This is important; the automatic choke may be assembled wrong and not catching the hook on the coil spring at all.

Start the engine with the air cleaner off. As the engine warms up, make sure that the butterfly opens until it is standing straight up (full open) when the engine is fully warm. If it doesn't, readjust the choke until you get it right.

Note: The engine is now warm, so you won't be able to adjust the choke per the foregoing. Note the position of the notch on the side of the choke relative to the three little ridges on the body of the carburetor. If the butterfly is too far closed with the engine warm, turn the choke clockwise just a bit to straighten it up. The notch on the choke should never be too far outside of the three ridges on the body of the carburetor.

If you are not able to adjust the choke using these method, something may be sticking, or perhaps the coil spring inside the canister is broken, or perhaps the wire has fallen off of the contact on the canister so that it is not getting power from the battery properly.

[MikeRG]

Basic Tuneup, and Adjustment of the Solex 34 PICT/3 Carburetor

This method will also work for the 30PICT/3 30PICT/4, 31PICT/4, 31PICT and H30/31 carburetors

with the two adjusting screws in the side.

http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html

Setting the 34PICT/3 Carburetor

Note: The correct idle speed is important with the 34PICT/3 carburetor, which is more complicated (and more sensitive) than the earlier types. It has three separate fuel circuits in it (only two in older carburetors), and the 850-900 rpm idle is designed so the airflow through the carburetor is balanced for the idle circuit fuel flow. That's why it has both Volume and Bypass screws in the side (the earlier ones had only Volume screws). This way the idle speed can be set correctly using the Bypass screw without touching the screw on the throttle arm, which has to be set exactly right.

The engine should be warmed up, but switched off. On the left side of the carburetor you will find the throttle arm, which is controlled by the accelerator cable that runs to the accelerator pedal in the cabin. On the top of the throttle arm, facing to the rear of the car, is a screw called the Fast Idle Adjuster. This works with the choke to give a smooth idle on a cold engine. As the choke warms (in concert with the warming engine, hopefully) the butterfly valve in the throat of the carburetor opens and the Fast Idle Adjuster moves down the stepped cam, reducing the engine idle speed.

Note: Screwing the Fast Idle Adjuster screw in more will increase the idle speed, but doing so messes up the Volume Control and Bypass Screw adjustments. This destroys the idle geometry, and the car won't run right.

Again, make sure that the choke is fully open and the Fast Idle Adjuster screw is resting on the very bottom of the stepped cam.

Unscrew the Fast Idle Adjuster screw until it is clear of the stepped cam. Screw it in until it JUST touches the very bottom of the stepped cam -- NOT on any of the steps themselves. Now screw it in another 1/4 turn -- no more! This sets the throttle butterfly open the required 0.004 inch, so you can use the Bypass Screw (read on) to set the idle speed correctly. From this point on, leave the Fast Idle Adjuster screw alone.

The carburetor is adjusted with the Volume Control Screw and the Bypass Screw on the left side of the carburetor. The Volume Control Screw is the smaller of the two. Screw it in GENTLY until it bottoms -- you don't want to open up the hole. Now unscrew it exactly 2-1/2 turns. This is the starting setting.

Start the engine and use the Bypass Screw (the larger screw in the side of the carburetor) to set the idle at 850rpm (fast idle if you don't have a tachometer). For a semi-automatic car, use 900rpm.

Note: See our Tune-Up Procedure for instructions on how to attach and use a dwell-tachometer.

Go back to the Volume Screw and adjust it slowly to obtain the fastest idle (usually out -- counter-clockwise). It should not be much outside the range of 2-3 turns (1/2 turn in/out from the basic 2-1/2 turn out setting). Then turn the screw back IN very slowly until the revs drop by about 25-30 rpm (slightly leaner). If you don't have a tachometer, listen until you can just hear the revs start to drop, maybe as little as 1/8th turn on the Volume Screw.

Now use the Bypass screw again to reset the idle speed to 850 - 900rpm.

Note: If you find it difficult or impossible to make these settings, it is possible that you could have stripped threads on any of these adjusters, a damaged hole for the tapered screw, or a damaged needle valve or O-ring.

That's it - you're done.

You should now have an engine which purrs like a kitten.

- Rob Boardman

Adelaide Australia

[silviustan]

oameni buni mersi mult de tot pt staruinta!acu cobor si am sa incerc solutiile date de voi .daca reusesc sunt tare!!!

daca nu....astept sa se incalzeasca timpu si mai vedem dup-aia!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

oricum ....ar fi cazu de bujii noi,incarcat bateria si reglat socul pe pozitia adecvata!am sa masor si curentu bagat de alternator.

[MikeRG]

Clearing a Blocked Heat Riser

~~~

The heat riser is the narrow pipe underneath the horizontal induction manifold. It is attached to fittings on the muffler/header pipes for the two rear cylinders, and carries exhaust heat up to the inlet manifold under the carburettor.

The heat riser forms two important functions. It prevents ice forming under the carburettor (caused by the fuel evapourating and cooling the inlet air below freezing - icing will eventually block the manifold and stop the engine. It also ensures that the remaining fuel droplets stay suspended in the air stream, and do not stick to the insides of the manifold (a problem with all long manifold designs), which results in fuel pooling and uneven mixtures.

Since the heat riser uses exhaust gases, it can be blocked over time by a build-up of baked-on carbon inside the pipe. A worn, oil-burning, poorly tuned engine will block the heat riser faster than a fresh well tuned engine (there’s a message in there!)

~~~

You can do the first part of this procedure with the inlet manifold still in the car, but you get a better result if it's removed.

With the muffler removed (or the manifold off the car) you have access to the ends of the heat riser.

Cut a length of old clutch cable (or similar stiff but flexible cable) about 18 inches long - just over half the length of the heat riser itself.

Fray a few of the wires at one end - bending them outwards to form a tiny wire brush on the end of the cable. Only a few mm of bent wire is needed since it has to travel through the squashed D section in the middle of the heat riser – where there isn’t much room. It doesn't have to be especially neat either. The steel in these cables are TOUGH - it will take some work to bend the wires.

Put the other end of the cable into a battery drill and spin it BACKWARDS so the cable doesn't unravel. It's important to use a low speed like the battery drills have so that the cable does not whip about uncontrollably. A power drill with low speed and reversing functions should work OK too.

Feed it into one end of the heat riser. It's hard to get around the corner and also hard to get into the D section in the middle, but persevere until you know it's more than 1/2 way through, then try again from the other side. You will probably have to hold the length of cable steady as you feed it in - I found a leather glove useful. It may jump and jerk as it cuts into the baked-on carbon. If you try to use a full length piece of cable it will flex and whip about too much - hence the ½ length recommended. It may go in like a hot knife through butter, or it may be quite resistant, depending on how hard the carbon is baked inside.

If you have the manifold off the car, you now upend it and place on a bench or in a vice so you can fill the heat riser with carburettor cleaner and leave it to soak overnight. Next morning, drain the carburettor cleaner and ream the heat riser with the cable again - this will scrape out all the extra bits loosened by the carburettor cleaner. Flush with water and leave to dry before putting it back on the car.

Note: If you don't have any carburettor cleaner but have some paint stripper in the shed, you can make yourself some carburettor cleaner since they use the same active ingredient - Methylene (or Methyl) Chloride. Dissolve about 10% paint stripper in 90% kerosine. Always wear heavy rubber gloves (not thin latex) and eye protection when using carburettor cleaner - it's rough on skin and eyes. You can re-use carburettor cleaner over and over - just keep it in a large metal tin with a tight fitting lid (Methylene Chloride evapourates) - a large coffee can or similar.

If you live in a warm climate, try to get one "small hole" gasket for the heat riser. The seal kits seem to always have two large-hole gaskets, but in warm countries VW originally used a small hole gasket in the downhill side (the one with the curved pipe leading into the muffler) to reduce the total heat in the riser and the manifold, and some VW shops may still have the small hole gasket available. You could also make yourself a suitable small hole gasket out of copper sheet (copper is semi-crushable for a good seal). Try a hole of 1/4" (6mm), and if the manifold above the heat riser does not get very warm, enlarge the hole a little. You can of course just use the two large-hole gaskets in the seal kit, but the manifold above the heat riser may get hotter than it needs to - nice and warm is just fine. A too-hot inlet mixture reduces engine power slightly, and increases engine temperatures too. In cooler climates the two larger hole gaskets will work best.

[silviustan]

A PORNIT JARTEAUA CHIAR PE "ULTIMA SUTA DE METRI".....adica la modu ca "ii mai dau o cheie si gata! : ".chestia e ca dupa fishe luate la bani marunti verificat bobina,carburator si soc nu am gasit nimic suspicius!?un spritz scurt si A LUATO!

P.S.ce-i drept a stat la soare vreo 0ra!oricum am luat bateria in casa......

[alinica2001]

A PORNIT JARTEAUA CHIAR PE "ULTIMA

Modificat 8 Februarie, 2005 de alinica2001

[1303S]

Ai uitat sa spui daca se invarte sau nu motoru'.

Vezi ca eu am patit-o din cauza bucsilor de la starter; vara mergea iarna de abia dupa 4-5 chei si un mic concert de vorbe care mai de care mai alese...

Scuze, n-am citit atent... nu vazusem ca ai zis ca baga benzina.

Modificat 8 Februarie, 2005 de 1303S

[Mihaita]

Cred ca exista niste sparyuri de pornire care contin un combustibil mai volatil decat benzina. Se da cu el in carburator astfel incat sa ajunga in motor. Fiind mai volatil se aprinde mai repede. Dupa aia incepe sa arda benzina.

Acum nu stiu cat de eficient este, eu nu am folosit niciodata.

Eu am pornit-o duminica pe la 9 seara si a luat-o din prima.

AAA, sa verifici si capacul delco, datorita frigului se poate sa ai condens acolo si sa nu dea scanteie. Pentru asta iti recomand WD-40, un spary care elimina apa, dai cu el in capac si stergi apoi usor, cat sa ramana o pelicula fina. Conduce electricitatea asa ca merge (prietenii stie ce miracole face acest spray :) ).

Se gaseste pe la metro si prin magazinele de auto.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Bravo tovarasu Victori! Spay multifuctional, nu am avut probleme cu pornirea iarna asta.

[silviustan]

unde se gaseste spray wd 40 ca l-am cautat prin cartier de am tampit!

.....sau ma rog spray multifunctional.....??????????

cobor intr'o juma'de ora si am sa vaz ce se-ntampla.

ieri am constatat ca intr-adevar uleiu' e cam marmelada-n carter....

[RaduI]

ieri am constatat ca intr-adevar uleiu' e cam marmelada-n carter....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Pai cam da ... de-aia o las si io la odihna sub -10.... Si cu bujiile asa e, saptamana trecuta am avut si eu o pornire mai dificila, am curat bujiile apoi, a mers brici

[bubu]

La orice magazin de piese auto gasesti shprei de ala. In legatura cu uleiurile: daca ala din carter e cam marmelada, ala din cutie sigur e magiun! Pe frigul asta, din cauza uleiului gros de transmisie, broasca mea pleca de nebuna, chiar scoasa din viteza!

Intrebare: stie cineva unde se gasete shprei special pentru curatzat contacte electrice? Rog umil pe jandarmii forumului sa nu ma duca la sectie de data asta. :)

[pacman]

Intrebare: stie cineva unde se gasete shprei special pentru curatzat contacte electrice?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

errrr.... ai incercat WD40?

sau.. mai poti incerca cu chestii specializate .... magazinul connex de la maica domnului.... se cheama R11

Modificat 9 Februarie, 2005 de pacman

[bubu]

Am incercat si a fost mai rau. Adica am dat pe la maneta de semnal si a inceput sa faca nasoale si contactul de la semnalul de dreapta, cel de stinga a inceput sa functioneze oarecum mai bine :( . Meseriasul de la vopsitorie avea un sprei de asta, dar a uitat sa-mi spuna de unde l-a cumparat... WD 40 e totusi putin cam uleios, chiar daca e conducator de electricitate...

[nyk0]

sa va intreb si eu ceva

am pornit si eu masina duminica si mers cam 10 -15 min

cand am dat bujiile jos am constatat ca cele de pe dreapta erau reci si ude deci nu au lucrat,iar cele de pe stanga ardeau si au lucrat beton

cand o acceleram mai brusc murea pt ca mergea in 2 bujii

stie cineva de ce nu au lucrat alea 2 din dreapta yo cred ca o fii ceva din fise ceva aprindere nu???????????

[RaduI]

sa va intreb si eu ceva

am pornit si eu masina duminica si mers cam 10 -15 min

cand am dat bujiile jos am constatat ca cele de pe dreapta erau reci si ude deci nu au lucrat,iar cele de pe stanga ardeau si au lucrat beton

cand o acceleram mai brusc murea pt ca mergea in 2 bujii

stie cineva de ce nu au lucrat alea 2 din dreapta yo cred ca o fii ceva din fise ceva aprindere nu???????????

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Poate sa fie o neetanseitate la garniturile galeriei de admisie pe partea aia. Sau bujii duse , mi s-a intamplat exact cum spui. Coincidenta urata sa se duca ambele de pe o parte, m-a bagat in ceata 2 saptamani asta :(

[silviustan]

fratilor, "JEGGY" merge si nu-mi mai face figuri la pornire(daca sta mai mult o ia dintr-a 3a cheie)dar tot ceea ce s-a intamplat zilele astea cu pornirea si cu mersu la rege(ger) mi-au ridicat semne de intrebare!!!!!?asa ca la primavara ...JOS MOTORU'.VESTEA BUNA E CA LUNI IMI ADUC UN MOTORAS RECONDITIONAT COMPLET DIN AUSTRIA(cu tot ce-i pe el).sunt curios .....

p.s.regula-i regula....bateria la ger in casa

[bubu]

Pot fi o mie de cauze, dar aprinderea trebuie verificata in primul rind: fise, capac de delcou. E posibil sa ai supape intzepenite in ghiduri din cauza statului de pomana, adica supapele de evacuare (astea, din cite stiu, se bulesc mai RPD), ceea ce inseamna ca cilindriii aia se ineaca. Chestia cu supapele e pura speculatzie, cel mai probabil fisele sunt bulite. Daca tot te duci la Al padrino, cere si un set de fise cu silicon: costa max 700 de kROL, nefiind, evident, OEM, ci englezesti, cel mai mic pretz posibil de pe piatza.

BTW: ai verificat ordinea de aprindere? Aia corecta e 1432. Cilindrul 1 e in punctul de aprindere atunci cind contactul rotorului e in dreptul unui semn de pe circumferintza corpului delcoului. Unii o gresec intentzionat, ca sa scada din pretz, spunind: uite, dom'le, ce aiurea merge motorul, il iau, daca scazi 80% din pretz! :( :ph34r: :ph34r:

Vad ca, intre timp, amicul Radui, mult mai experimentat, a dat o explicatzie mai pertinenta, dar incearca sa vezi daca nu e vorba si de ce ti-am spus eu.

[bubu]

Bay, ce mincarime avetzi la deshte! Raspunsul era pentru amicul cu cei doi cilindri dementzi.

@ Silviustan: motoriciul ala il aduci legal, cu acte, il potzi pune fara dureri de bila? cit a costat?

La mine, pe cancer, fac exact ca in carte: un spritz scurt, apoi o revenire foarte lenta a pedalei, apoi cheie si porneste! daca nu fac chestia asta, nu o ia din prima...

[silviustan]

da bre...LEGAL CU ACTE ...PIESA DE SCHIMB,platit VAMA...MEHRWERTSTEUER INAPOI!

ASA cum ai spus tu(pornitu ca la carte) il fac si io acuma...numai ca asta se intampla numai dupa ce faci un topic nou,iti dai cu tesla'n .... si citesti carticica aia gri a masinii.

io motoru-l iau printr'o cunostinta la un pretz de 2 lei ....un fel de "io imi pun de 1.8 si ti-l dau tie p'ala cocosatu!".

[bubu]

hi, hi, hi! Fritz stie el ce scrie in cartea aia! Prima regula, la broaste: nu dai spritzuri ca la nebuni! Asta mi-a spus mie moshul cind am luat broasca. Nu potzi sa mai aduci un mortor? Cica in Austria tot tirolezu' are o broasca in fatza casei...

[silviustan]

AAAA...pai stai sa-ti povestesc!io de 2 ani maerg in austria cu "bisnitza"si cam tot de atunci ma cam dau cu broastele...da broaste ca'n osteraih n-am vazut ...

nu exagerez da vezi broaste APROAPE in fiecare sat sau orasel

am vorbit cu SURSA si mi-a zis ca exista cate un club in aproape toate oraselele astea mai mai...si in fiecare orasel e cate un KFZ !chiar pan tirol sau pan munti mai vezi cate una intr-o curte stand langa nustiu ce vw sau carutza d'asta noua.