Bucsa de ghidaj

[soryn]

Dragilor!

problema cu bucsa nu e chiar asa de simpla! Broscalex, cum ai de gand sa schimbi bucsa (care e asta cred ca "saiba" in care vine pusa e in tunel, sudata de plafonul tunelului ( cel putin asa e la mine). Mihaiachi, eu am rezolvat problema la strungar cu urmatoarele cote

La montaj am avut noroc ca "saiba" in care trebuia montata era rupta, am "fasonat-o" sa ramana un semicerc in "tavanul" tunelului si am fixat-o ( bucsa) pe dedesupt cu o tija L de 3mm cu piulita la un cap ( trecuta orizontal, perpendicular pe axul schimbator-teava de 22). Sper ca experienta mea ajute colegilor

MikeRG, poate ca ar trebui sa muti topicul asta la Tehnic

Modificat 8 Martie, 2006 de soryn

[tibimakai]

nu asa se face. trebuie desfacut cuplajul de sub bancheta din spate si se demonteaza cele doua capace din fata masinii(de dupa bara de protectie) si celalalt de dupa roata de rezerva si se trage tot axul schimbatorului afara inspre fata masinii. schimbi bucsa, stergi bara si il ungi din nou(cit mai bine) si remontezi totul. :banghead:

este o operatie murdara, fi pregatit

[asterics]

In mare e asa cum zice Tibi. Exista o explicatie insotita de poze pe http://www.superbeetles.com, mie mi-a fost de ajutor cand am schimbat bucsa. Spor la lucru si nu in ultimul rand multa rabdare, vei avea nevoie.

[MikeRG]

nu asa se face. trebuie desfacut cuplajul de sub bancheta din spate si se demonteaza cele doua capace din fata masinii(de dupa bara de protectie) si celalalt de dupa roata de rezerva si se trage tot axul schimbatorului afara inspre fata masinii. schimbi bucsa, stergi bara si il ungi din nou(cit mai bine) si remontezi totul. ;)

este o operatie murdara, fi pregatit

ai uitat si de capacul de vizitare din capul de sasiu - asa ca sunt trei capace de dat jos

[RaduI]

ai uitat si de capacul de vizitare din capul de sasiu - asa ca sunt trei capace de dat jos

N-a uitat, daca e '66 o avea doar 2 capace, ca la mine ;)

[MikeRG]

N-a uitat, daca e '66 o avea doar 2 capace, ca la mine ;)

c'est impossible, moncher! ti-o lipsi tie vreun capac!

[RaduI]

c'est impossible, moncher! ti-o lipsi tie vreun capac!

Ai uitat cum e la domnisoarele cu faruri ovale...au capac la "capulasasiu" ;) , dar in caroserie e o gaura acoperita de capota portbagajului, nu mai e nevoie de capac.

[MikeRG]

Ai uitat cum e la domnisoarele cu faruri ovale...au capac la "capulasasiu" ;) , dar in caroserie e o gaura acoperita de capota portbagajului, nu mai e nevoie de capac.

C'est juste! I stand corrected! Vive le trou! ;)

[RaduI]

C'est juste! I stand corrected! Vive le trou! ;)

pai ar fi fost chiar culmea sa nu recunosti, ca doar tu mi-ai atras atentia asupra chestiunii, acu aproape 2 ani ;)

[MikeRG]

pai ar fi fost chiar culmea sa nu recunosti, ca doar tu mi-ai atras atentia asupra chestiunii, acu aproape 2 ani ;)

ehei, e mult de atunci, cate au curs de atunci... ;)

[MishuL]

Cred ca era mai bine daca era din duramid sau din teflon, dar merge si textolitul...

Problema e daca ai carpit buzunarul si a disparut capacul- tre' sa tai alta gaura si sa pui capac....

[broscalex]

eu am rezolvat-o mai simplu, dupa ce am demontat tot, am luat legatura cu Karcsi, iar el a comandat din Ungaria bucsa si urmeaza sa-mi soseasca si sa o montez.

[tibimakai]

oameni buni, nu va luati de git acum pentru un capac. eu am dat o explicatie asa in mare pentru ca drumul luat de soryn era gresit. daca vreti pot lua biblia si o descriu amanuntit :)

[MikeRG]

TECH CORNER

Beetle Shift Rod Bushing Replacement

“Where’s that gear” By: Glenn Ring

I recently had a Berg 5 transmission built. After installing it I noticed that the gear location was difficult. Sometimes when downshifting from 3rd into 2nd, it would try to engage reverse causing a rather loud grinding noise (not good thing). I spoke to Gary Berg (he built the tranny) and he told to that the shift rod bushing is probably the cause. It must be in perfect condition and properly lubricated for precise shifting. He also said that the support bracket could be damaged and might need to be replaced.

I decided to tackle the problem right away and not risk the chance of damaging the new transmission. I purchased the following parts, 111-701-225B Shift Guide, 111-701-259A Bushing, 111-701-263 Clip for bushing and 311-798-211 Shift Rod Coupler.

To replace the bushing the shift rod needs to be removed. It’s moved toward the front until the end clears the bushing support. There is an inspection plate on the frame head that must be removed. It’s held on with 2 10mm bolts. Then you remove the 2 13mm bolts that hold down the shifter. At that point I was able to reach in a check the play I in the shift rod. To my surprise there was way too much, in fact after a closer inspection I found that the bushing wasn’t worn out, but was missing and broken in 3 pieces. Next I removed the rear seat bottom to get access to the shift rod coupler. You will need a Philips screwdriver to remove the cover plate. Then use a 8mm wrench and needle nose pliers to remove the lag bolt that hold the shift rod to the coupler. Finally you need a 8mm open-end wrench to remove the square setscrew that holds the coupler to the transmission.

Now comes the fun part. You need to push the shift rod toward the front until it clears the bushing support. I used long needle nose pliers that are bent 45 degrees to gently move it. When you get about 3” from the back end of the rod, the front end had to be passed through the inspection hole in the frame head. You need to go to the front and reach in and lift it through. It’s real tight and not that easy. I use a bent wire hanger to help grab it. I also use another wire hanger to support the back end of the rod once it came off the bushing support. Otherwise it will drop into the tunnel.

If your old bushing is there, you need to reach in and remove it. The support is about 1.5” past the shifter opening. It’s real tight so take your time. Take a few seconds to inspect the bushing support. If it is damaged, then it needs to be replaced (a major pain and not covered here). You are now ready to install the new bushing. Make sure the clip is in place and carefully push it into the support. The bushing has a grove and makes a positive snap when it’s in place. Check the fit to make sure the support isn’t damaged. There’s a cut in the bushing, it should be rotated to face the driver’s side. Apply some grease to the bushing and push the shift rod back into it. Use the needle nose pliers to carefully slide the rod back. Apply some grease, with a small acid brush, every few inches. When the rod is almost in place you can go to the coupler opening in the back and pull it the last few inches. Now just install the new coupler. Make sure the square setscrew is correctly in place and use a safety wire to ensure it doesn’t come loose. Finally reinstall the shifter and the inspection plate in the frame head and you’re done.

After you’ve cleaned up you are ready for many years of smooth shifting. No more searching for gears. This is one of those things you do every 20 years. Hopefully, you’ll have the car 20 years from now to do it again.

[soryn]

“If your old bushing is there, you need to reach in and remove it. The support is about 1.5” past the shifter opening. It’s real tight so take your time. Take a few seconds to inspect the bushing support. If it is damaged, then it needs to be replaced (a major pain and not covered here). You are now ready to install the new bushing. Make sure the clip is in place and carefully push it into the support. The bushing has a grove and makes a positive snap when it’s in place. Check the fit to make sure the support isn’t damaged. There’s a cut in the bushing, it should be rotated to face the driver’s side. Apply some grease to the bushing and push the shift rod back into it. Use the needle nose pliers to carefully slide the rod back. Apply some grease, with a small acid brush, every few inches. When the rod is almost in place you can go to the coupler opening in the back and pull it the last few inches. Now just install the new coupler. Make sure the square setscrew is correctly in place and use a safety wire to ensure it doesn’t come loose. Finally reinstall the shifter and the inspection plate in the frame head and you’re done.”

La chestia subliniata m-am referit ( la mine era rupt suportul) cand am dat schita si poza cu bucsha de textolit. Piesa de prindere a bucshei de ghidaj e sudata in pucte de tunnel. Nu vad cum s-ar putea schimba numa daca tai o fereastra destul de mare in fundul tunelului, dezbati bucsha stricata si sudezi una noua ( sunt mag virtuale care livraza asa ceva)

Altfel e destul de greu, oricum, sa bagi bucsha noua pe sus prin gaura de schimbator ( tu cum ai montat-o,Broscalex?)

Eu cred ca am sa decupez din tunel partea cu ghidajul si am s-o inlocuiesc cu

Modificat 23 Martie, 2006 de soryn

[RaduI]

Eu cred ca am sa decupez din tunel partea cu ghidajul si am s-o inlocuiesc cu

Mi se pare absurd sa tai din structura masinii ca sa pui o bucsa din plastic. Eu n-o am deloc si, in afara de faptul ca se flencane schimbatorul si se aud zgomote din tunel cand loveste tija de metal, alte probleme nu-s. Taie tu tunelul , ai sa vezi probleme atunci ...

[MishuL]

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