Touareg...cateva intrebari

[iustinn]

....

De ceva timp sunt posesorul unui VW Touareg r5, 2005. Nu am manualul in romana (inca) si am cateva intrebari la care sper sa gasesc un raspuns:D:

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3.In timp ce mergeam(pe asfalt fara gropi ..) au sarit butoanele ce deschid cotiera(sper sa pot face cateva poze astazi) nu pare nimic rupt, insa nu stiu cum sa le mai pun la loc:(.

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Si eu m-am trezit intr-o zi cu butonul cazut. Nu stiu sa-ti explic exact, dar pana la urma l-am pus la loc. Il iei in mana, studiezi formele si o sa te prinzi cum sa-l pui la loc.

L-am pus si eu la loc, dar am impresia ca s-a rupt ceva pe acolo ca sta mai ridicat in partea dreapta:(.

[Kristigrasu]

nu inca nu i-am dat de cap pentru ca momentan sunt in italia si aici broscarii sunt cam incuiati, peste 3 saptamani ajung in ro si ma ocup de mashina, o sa revin dupa si vedem ce a iesit. :) salve!

[rockforever]

Buna ziua , sper c am nimerit bine topic ul ...

am un touareg R5 din sept. 2008.

acum o saptamana mi a dat cateva erori..si anume

eroare diferential ...eroare senzor ulei ( cu limitare de viteza ) ... eroare key less... eroare frane ( semnul de frane clipaie si la inceput se aud 3 semnale sonore, bec galbenABS aprins , bec galben ESP aprins, bec cu semnul motorului aprins )

am completat uleiul si lichidul de frana cat a trebuit si au disparut ..

dupa 3 zile au aparut din nou din senin...

Voi ce parere aveti ??

O sa ma duc cu ea in service la sfarsit de saptamana .. :icon_cry:

Pana acum n am avut nicio problema cu masina ...

Va multumesc pentru viitoarele sfaturi !!

[CristiT]

Salut!

Am avut cam aceleași probleme descrise de tine și uite rezolvarea:

http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f43/several-engine-brake-faults-70932-3.html

[chry]

Salutare.Am si eu o nelamurire in privinta unui vw touareg, an fabricatie 2006,motor 2.5 TDI, 120 KW ,163CP.Nelamurirea mea este ca dimineata cand il pornesc icepe sa oscileze foarte putin acul de la turometru si motorul nu merge rotund timp de 2-3 minute dupa care isi revinesi. Inca o problema o am cu fumul,scoate fum la pornire nu tare mult si numai cand am oscilatiile la motor,dupa care bineinteles totul revine la normal.Are cineva un raspuns concret.Masina o am de curand si nu stiu prea multe despre problemele ce pot aparea.Va multumesc.

[Robbie10r]

Va salut baieti revin si eu sa va cer niste sfaturi. Detin un R5,care ieri cand am parcurs drumu Bucuresti-Fetesti, in curbe simteam niste mici trepidatii undeva in podea .Toate bune si frumoase ,pana azi ,cand la un scurt drum prin capitala ,masina a inceput efectiv sa tremure foarte violent si foarte zgomotos cu cat o acceleram mai tare (de precizat ca nu am indraznit sa merg cu mai mult de 30km/h) ,din cate am citit pe forum ,am observat ca un punct slab al masinii ar fi cardanul .A avut cineva astfel de probleme recent ,ma intereseaza costul interventiei .Va multumesc anticipat ptr eventualele raspunsuri!

[katalinscrob]

DACA este cardanul si anume interaxialul mai exact costa undeva la 1200 lei reconditionat cu cel vechi la schimb. Nou aprox 3600lei. Dar ca la orice reper mecanic cu probleme ar trebui mai intai sa o sui pe elevator totusi. Daca prima bucata a cardanului, cea dinspre cutie, se misca atunci cand tragi de ea exagerat...atunci cam ala e.

[albinatrevel]

Salut. Am si eu o problema la R5 si anume se aude o bataie puternica pe spate atunci cand merg pe un drum mai rau,mai ales la denivelari dese. Nu am idee ce ar putea fi. Mi se pare ca nu se aude de la roti,ci de undeva de pe mijloc spate,ar putea fi ceva legat de diferentialul spate,a mai avut cineva vreo problema asemanatoare?

[katalinscrob]

Mai degraba articulatii / tampoane / bucse puntea spate. La 4x4 in general sunt teorii interminabile despre zgomote pe sub masina in zona elementelor in miscare asa ca voi incerca sa fiu cat mai concis:

1. Daca ai diff blocant spate poti sa faci un test simplu: o dai pe low range, mergi in cerc, ulterior rear diff block la fel mers in cerc stanga dreapta si vezi daca mai scoate vreun zgomot. In mod normal nu este indicat sa mergi prea mult cu rotatii diferite la roti (adica altfel decat in linie dreapta) atunci cand ai diff-ul spate blocat pentru ca el tocmai asta face prin blocare, imprima rotilor aceeasi rotatie st dr. Insa, asa cum ziceam rotile spate avand rotatii diferite vor pune la munca torsen-ul si in caz ca e ceva in neregula acela e momentul ideal ca sa-ti dai seama, practic izolezi la maxim zona de provenienta a zgomotului si vei auzi clar daca e ceva in neregula cu diferentialul spate.

2. Daca zgomotul apare deja de cand ai rotit pe low range, pana sa blochezi central si ulterior spate, deja e alta mancare de peste, difful central sau cardanul ar fi mai degraba .... joaca-te nitel cu ea si vezi care-i treaba.

3. Daca nu ai decat low range si diff central blocabil, atunci cauta in alta parte, in zona puntii sunt multe articulatii etc. Iti doresc sa ai fix 2 bucse bulite sau tamponul de cauciuc de la diff si atata tot. Bafta !

[robertdinca]

Aceiasi problema am avut-o si eu cu trepidatiile de la interaxial. S-a defectat bucsa care tinea rulmentul si am inlocuit tot cardanul. (Atentie sa-l echilibreze)

Modificat 3 Mai, 2012 de robertdinca

[giculastaricu]

Salutare baieti,

Sunt un proaspat proprietar de Touareg 3.0 V6 TDI facelift. Fabricatie 2007, air suspension, diff lock, navi (pe dvd, rns2 cred) si alte jucarii.

V-am urmarit discutiile, nestiind prea multe despre masina asta si multumesc tuturor celor care posteaza aici raspunsuri la intrebari la care nu gasim raspunsuri in alta parte.

Manualul de utilizare e in Germana si nu pricep nimic, desi masina a fost vanduta de PBN.

Are la activ 108k km. Stie cineva cam ce ar trebui sa fac la masina in primul rand, pe langa o revizie cu schimbat filtre si ulei? Am dus-o la o verificare, s-a pus tester pe ea (vcsd parca) si concluziile au fost ca injectoarele functioneaza foarte bine, nu exista erori, etc.

La galeria aia de la filtrul de aer catre turbina exista totusi ceva ulei iar persoana care a facut verificarea mi-a zis ca e posibil sa pice turbina dar asta mai tarziu, poate chiar dupa 150k km (?!). - > recomandare: sa incerc sa merg cu ea cat mai putin subturata; adica daca se merge frecvent in oras ar fi bine ca din cand in cand sa o scot la un drum pe care sa ii dau ture peste 3k. E corecta recomandarea?

In rest, cica n-ar fi probleme, zice-se ca arata foarte bine la partea de articulatii, bucse, etc.

Si acum cateva mici probleme:

1. are cineva de vanzare cartusul ala din plastic de la magazia de cd-uri? Cel in care se baga cele 6 cd-uri. Masina are magazia dar fara cartusul ala.

2. pe masina e montat un tuner tv marca Hirschmann. Menu-ul se vede pe ecranul din bord, se aude sunet dar apare pe ecran "no video" desi toate mufele sunt infipte la locul lor, nu e nimic pe langa. Stie cineva ceva despre asta?

3. acum are roti pe 18: 255/55/R18 cu jante Alutec. Din ce am citit pe aici e recomandat sa pastrez rotile astea; cele pe 20 dau bine vizual dar creste riscul de stricaciuni pe la articulatii, suspensie pneumatica, etc. Si leg chestia asta cu rotile de anuntul urmator - daca-mi este permis

Asadar, de vanzare 4 jante originale VW pe 20 cu tot cu anvelope de iarna Pirelli Scopion 275 / 40 / R20. Pret special pentru tot pachetul: 3500 ron

Incerc sa atasez si vreo 2 poze.

Multumesc anticipat pentru orice raspuns din partea voastra

O.

[Robbie10r]

Multumesc mult baieti ptr raspunsuri. Intradevar ,cardanul e problema ,ma rog interaxialul si il voi inlocui cu unul nou ca sa stau linistit . O sa imi iau ramas bun de la 1000E :))

[iustinn]

Ca tot veni vorba... Cand urc o panta mai mare in treapta intai, mers incet, pana in 2000 rpm (drum accidentat) se aude un zgomot pe spate,incet,dar se aude. Nu stiu cum sa-l descriu, ca si cand ar freca anvelopa de ceva (bineinteles ca nu freaca nicio anvelopa, doar incerc sa descriu sunetul), mentionez ca nu are nicio trepidatie sau vreo bataie. Daca maresc viteza-aproape 3000 rpm in treapta intai nu se mai aude nimic. Este vreun motiv de ingrijoare sau e ceva normal?

[chry]

Salutare baieti.Am postat si eu la pagina 9 ultima rubrica cateva probleme legat de un vw touareg.Imi pote spune si mie cineva care pot fi rezolvarile.Va multumesc

[raulp]

Multumesc mult baieti ptr raspunsuri. Intradevar ,cardanul e problema ,ma rog interaxialul si il voi inlocui cu unul nou ca sa stau linistit . O sa imi iau ramas bun de la 1000E :))

Problema e ca s-ar putea sa tina la fel de mult ca unul reconditionat (daca ne luam dupa cat a tinut cel din fabrica) iar atunci nu se justifica diferenta de pret.

[giculastaricu]

Salutare,

Am gasit pe un forum extern cateva informatii foarte interesante si care cred ca ne-ar putea ajuta pe toti.

O sa expun aici ce am citit acolo cu copy-paste chiar daca e un sir foarte lung de informatii pentru ca, repet, sunt informatii care ne pot ajuta atat pe cei care suntem deja posesori de T-reg cat si pe cei care vor sa-si cumpere o astfel de masina.

Asadar:

There have been a number of requests from new members asking what to look for when buying a used Treg. I thought it may be useful to gather all the info into one post which could perhaps be pinned.

I’ve prepared a draft below. I wonder if the regs could suggest any amendments or additions, I'm sure I've missed some.

(Some of you may recognise your comments from previous posts that I have cut & pasted !)

Buying a used Touareg. What to look for.

All of the points below are well documented on the forum. For more info on any of them just do a search.

Original Touareg (T1) 7L (2002 -2007)

Facelift model 7L (T2) (2007-2010)

and second generation model 7P (T3) (2010-current).

The later 240 bhp V6 TDI is a cracking engine but this only appeared from 2007 onwards. There was an earlier less powered V6TDI version (225bhp) which was fitted in cars from about 2004 - 2007) and the R5 engine which had 174 bhp - many owners are happy with the R5 but the general consensus is that a V6 is smoother and obviously more powerful.

Also the touchscreen RNS510 Sat Nav unit with 30gb hard drive only came in the face lifted models, but also not that some early facelifts were also fitted with the DVD based MFD2/RNS2 units.

According to the media reports, VW engineered some 2300 redesigned parts and technological features in the facelift model but some common faults still remained - eg, valve chest, stepper motor, centre propshaft bearing, coolant loss/EGR valve, water pump, electrical gremlins, etc, so do some research and get familiar with the common issues - plenty of info/threads to read here.

The Treg is a great car but you need to appreciate that it can be expensive to maintain, it was built and marketed as a prestige car and there are few independent VW specialists around with the equipment, knowledge and skills required, so you may well have to end up at a main dealership to put it right - some are good and some are bad as members can testify. Buy the best car you can afford and get a warranty - this latter advice will no doubt be endorsed by others

Know your Touareg

The best thing any prospective Touareg buyer can do is to invest several evenings looking through the threads on here to get a feel for the problems. Remember people come to forums when they have a problem so don't be too put off!

These are not budget Cars

Touaregs were expensive when new and they can be very expensive to repair. These are not cars for someone on a tight budget. Engines and gearboxes can run away with £5,000 each. The V10 engine costs over £10,000 and it takes 30 hours to remove and replace it.

There are next to no VW specialists serving the Touareg community. There are plenty for your Polo, Golf or Passat, but definitely not for the Touareg [some don't even have car lifts man enough to lift 2.5 tons] so you are probably going to be in the hands of main dealers and their labour rates. But even here there are few dealers recommended for their Touareg knowledge but at least they may have the right tools to do the repairs!

Unlike Land Rover where you have an excellent choice of independents AND alternative sources for parts, with the Touareg most of the bits have to be sourced from VW and you can either pay dealer prices [sometimes things are very reasonable, sometimes not!] or use one of the motor factors who offer decent discounts.

And don't think that if you are buying new or nearly new, VW dealers are going to roll out the red carpet as you buy one of their top of the range cars. They don't. And VW GB don't give a sh"t either even if you have a serious problem with a brand new car!

Recall 90D7

Check for sticker in boot next to tyre storage area confirming that the recall work has been done. Work varied by chassis number but included stepper motor issues.

Valve chest

Judder when auto box changes down from 5th to 4th gear under load. The 5th to 4th clunk is a well known gearbox problem requiring a new valve chest at about £1900 at the VW dealer or half that price if you go to an independent who refurbishes them. Lots have had it done at 60-90K.

Prop shaft mounting

Vibration felt under centre console storage bin area. VW will only replace full shaft at £1500. Plenty of posts for recommendations for repairers who will replace just the bearing for about £250. Now looked on as a routine maintenance item at 5 years / 60k.

Stepper motors

Juddering on full lock right or left turning circle. Find an empty car park. Should have been addressed by recall 90D7.

Steering rack and bushes.

There have been problems requiring wishbone or even full steering rack replacement. Listen for creaking noises.

Windscreen wipers.

Can leave uncleared streak in middle of windscreen in front of driver. Cured by replacing wiper arms. Should have been done under warranty.

Auto light & wipers

If car is equipped check that they work. There have been problems with the sensor at the top of the windscreen.

Interior trim

Look for cracks in the wooden trim on the doors and dash. Check for peeling buttons and switch surrounds especially on drivers door.

Body

Check for rust around bottom of rear doors which form the wheelarch, especially inside.

Suspension

If equipped with air suspension, look for corrosion around the brass pneumatic fittings which are prone to corrosion and failure.

Headlight

The T1 has a mechanism that clips the whole headlight into place. It needs to be released with a fairly hefty twist using a special tool on a hex nut mounting. Over exuberant twisting can snap or shear the mounting and the whole headlight tray will need replacing in a bumper off job. Check that the mounting is intact. The T2 has a different system.

Xenon lights

If advertised as equipped with Xenons check that they are the genuine factory Xenons and not an aftermarket retro fit. Xenons are required by law to have auto levelling and headlamp washers. Cars with retro fitted Xenons will not have auto levelling and will fail MOT.

If factory fitted check that auto levelling and washers work, otherwise an MOT failure is again on the cards. When lights are switched on they should raise and lower themselves to test the auto levelling function. Washers come on when lights are on and screen washer stalk is held for over 4 seconds.

Privacy glass

Worth checking as it may be that the car has been fitted with a retro fit sticky back plastic film. Easily seen as it shows up the rear window antennas and demister wires, being applied inside the glass, rather than the factory fit where the actual glass is tinted so the wires are behind the tint rather than in front of the tint.

Alloy wheels

Look out for aftermarket "bling" alloy wheels. If they are non genuine VW wheels they may not have sufficient load bearing capability for off roading. They could also invalidate your insurance as a non approved modification. Tyres may also not be XL (extra load) type.

Tyres

Check for uneven wear which could be a tracking problem.

Must be same tyres in terms of tyre make, type, size and tread pattern on each axle (preferably same on all 4 corners). No more than 2mm difference in tread depth between tyres on same axle, and no more than 3mm difference between front & rear axles.

Outside this tolerance can cause transmission problems. Any tyre below 4 mm ought to be replaced anyway.

Air con / climate control

Listen to the HVAC system - any repeated clicking noises may cost you £500 for taking the dashboard apart to replace a £60 heater flap servo motor.

Check all the flaps send air where you expect it and the aircon is nice and cold.

Roof rails.

T2s had the option of longitudinal roof rails which are factory fit only. Look out for cars advertised with non genuine roof rails that are made to fit into the roof tracks designed for the cross roof bars. This type of roof rail is non load bearing for cosmetic styling only.

Usually are slightly too short and you can see the black plastic of the roof channels at either end.

Sat nav

Check for the latest version of mapping. RNS2/MFD2 is currently up to v9/2012 mapping. The latest firmware is V30. RNS510 Current version is version 8.

Check too as it may be a retrofit. All Tregs that had satnav fitted at the factory will have the full colour screen between the clocks on the instrument panel. Cars with no sat nav will have had a smaller monochrome red display and you will not get the full functionality. Also check that all the steering wheel buttons work for volume and track forward/back control etc. T1’s have a different canbus system to later vehicles and may not be compatible with a newer satnav. (Plenty of threads on this too).

Airbag light

Check the airbag check light is not illuminated. There have been problems with the wiring under the front seats and passenger airbag disabled lamp. Both problems disable the whole airbag system and again are an MOT failure.

Rust

The front wings are made of plastic. On a sunny day if you look up and under the wing you'll see they are translucent!

However, the rear doors are made of steel and there have been reports of rust.

Open the rear doors and look for bubbling under the paint on the curved inside edge [the curve that follows the forward edge of the rear wheel arch] that sits on the door rubbers.

Water Retention

There are five areas where you may find water problems.

1. The sun roof drains can block. There are threads on here about this.

2. The bulkhead drains can block with leaves over time. There are threads on here about this. It is easy to check by putting a hose at the bottom of the windscreen and seeing if water runs of of the front wheel arches where the drains emerge. If not it take 30 minutes to remove the wheel arch linings, pull the rubber drain bungs and clean the drains out on each side. NOTE that if the blockage is not cleared water can ingress through the pollen filter on the passenger bulkhead and run under the carpet where it can seriously damage ECUs and electrics down there so lift and check the underside of the carpet is dry! If not, get the pollen filter out and see if that it wet as well.

3. When you accelerate or brake you may hear water sloshing to and fro. This is a very easy fix. There are three grommets in each of the cills the run along under the doors on each side of the car. Remove a grommet and the retained water will run out. I threw the grommet away for a permanent solution as no one seems to know where this water comes from.

4. The air conditioning condensate pipe can block. Again there are threads on here about this.

5. If someone has been mean with the screen wash during the winter, the pipe to the rear wash wipe can freeze and burst in the rear roof lining on the driver's side between the rear door and the tailgate. Open the hatch and look up and to the right for water stains. It's a known problem and cost about £100 for a dealer to drop the lining and fix it. I recommend VW dealer as inexperienced hands may damage the one piece roof lining so in my opinion it is not worth the risk.

Brakes

Brakes can be done by any competent garage and thus save you up to 50% on VW dealers' prices tho' some dealers will try and price match so it's worth asking. Mine does and they're good - VW Maidenhead. Note some dealers try to tell you that you need new discs and pads well before the brake wear warning light comes on so be warned. You have at least 2,000 miles to get your car booked in when the light comes on so there's no need to rush into this maintenance unless there is a major fault.

Parking Brake Pedal

The parking brake pedal should engage in about 5 to 8 clicks. If it takes more, then the parking brake shoes which are inside a drum incorporated in the rear discs need adjusting or replacing. Becasuse they are only applied when the car is stationary, there is no friction so these drums rust badly and the reduced braking efficiency can fail the MoT test. Once a month, drive very slowly with the parking brake partially on for a couple of hundred yards to try and keep the rust at bay.

If, when you release the parking brake, the parking brake warning lights stays on, this is a very common problem that can be solved in several different ways. The first is to hook your left toecap under the pedal to pull it up the fraction of an inch it needs to turn the light off! The second is to count to two after you have pulled but before you release the parking brake handle. The third is to check the parking brake shoes are correctly adjusted to only take 5 to 8 clicks to set the brake. The fourth is to replace the tired hydraulic piston that pushes the pedal back up when you release the brake.

---END---

[Cristi MV]

Asa cum s-a mai cerut in acest topic deja, rog un utilizator sa deschida un topic Remapare VS Chiptuning, plusuri, minusuri, etc. multumesc.

[giculastaricu]

Salutare,

Stie cineva cum se face o desfundare de scurgere condens de la clima la 3.0 V6 TDI?

M-am trezit cu apa la picioare la sofer si la o urmarire atenta am observat cum vine un firicel de apa de sub bord, chiar din mijloc, atunci cand pornesc AC.

Multumesc,

O.

[chry]

Salutare.Am si eu o nelamurire in privinta unui vw touareg, an fabricatie 2006,motor 2.5 TDI, 120 KW ,163CP.Nelamurirea mea este ca dimineata cand il pornesc icepe sa oscileze foarte putin acul de la turometru si motorul nu merge rotund timp de 2-3 minute dupa care isi revinesi. Inca o problema o am cu fumul,scoate fum la pornire nu tare mult si numai cand am oscilatiile la motor,dupa care bineinteles totul revine la normal.Are cineva un raspuns concret.Masina o am de curand si nu stiu prea multe despre problemele ce pot aparea.Va multumesc.

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[chry]

Salutare .Aceiasi problema o am si eu la un touareg R5,2.5 TDI,163 CP,numai ca la mine sau facut dungi orizontale si nu de mult a iceput sa se stearga afisajul.Va rog daca aveti o idee unde as putea sa gasesc sa il schimb.displey-ul este color(iluminatu exact ca la masinile mai noi).Multumesc anticipat.

[katalinscrob]

am eu bord de la un proiect neterminat la a mea, model facelift, stare f buna, fara pb, 120.000km pe el, luat din germania pentru a mea care avea la vremea respectiva 122.000km ( ca sa scutesc banii dati pe modificarea km). daca te intereseaza suna-ma si ne intelegm la un pret, il tin degeaba cu speranta ca il voi monta totusi pe a mea cand voi avea timp (d-asta nici nu am terminat proiectul in sine, lipsa acuta de timp). pe scurt asigur integrare perfecta in orice model touareg tdi dupa 2007 :)

Modificat 19 Iunie, 2012 de katalinscrob

[chry]

Salutare.Din pacate nu este bun acel bord,Al meu este alt model,are ecranul mai mic si e un dreptunghi intors

Daca auzi sau sti pe cineva care are de vanzare anunta-ma te rog .Mersi mult.

[katalinscrob]

salut, ai exact acelasi tip de bord ca al meu, adica prefacelift, can 1.6 pe partea de infotainment. cauta pe ebay.de, sigur vei gasi ceva bun si ieftin. montajul si codatul sunt relativ simple. bafta.

[chry]

Multumesc mult pentru informatie.Am o intrebare,ai idee cam cat ar costa in Romania sa schimb o volant la touareg 2.5 tdi ? pentru ca dimineata cand o pornesc timp de 3-5 minute imi oscileaza turometru si am trepidati la motor;Mersi.M-am uitat pe ebay si nu am gasit decat unu singur dar era model 2004 cred si nu e bun.Mersi o seara buna.

[adrian001]

Salutare baieti,

....

2. pe masina e montat un tuner tv marca Hirschmann. Menu-ul se vede pe ecranul din bord, se aude sunet dar apare pe ecran "no video" desi toate mufele sunt infipte la locul lor, nu e nimic pe langa. Stie cineva ceva despre asta?

....

Da! Banuiesc ca tu ai un TV Tuner compatibil DVB-T MPEG2 (nu m-am uitat pe net dupa specificatii, dar in proportie de 99% este asa). E, in Romania nu se mai emit posturi TV (DVB-T) in formatul asta, s-a trecut la fratele lui mai mare si mai performant si anume MPEG4-AVC pe care echipamentul tau nu este capabil sa il decodeze. El poate decoda doar fluxul audio pentru ca "stie" codec-ul audio, dar nu stie de cel video (MPEG4-AVC) si de aia auzi sunetul, dar nu vezi nimic pe ecran ...